Repair kit - what to carry to fix a flat tire.

Flat tires are a part of cycling. Every cyclist, from professionals to the complete beginner gets them, but don't fret - a puncture doesn't have to be the end of your ride. With practice you can change a flat in about 5 minutes and get back on the road. When you head out for bike ride, you should always carry the supplies needed to fix a flat, every time. Even if you don't know how to change a flat yet, bring these items anyway. Someone else might be able to help you. Here is a handy checklist:

• A spare inner tube (or two, for longer rides)
• A tube patch kit. Old-school, but great in a pinch. You can get tubeless tire plug patch kits and tire boots too. 
• Tire levers - invaluable for removing and installing the tire
• Portable hand Pump or CO2 cartridge inflator
• Wrench to loosen your axle nuts or thru-axle (some bikes may require an Allen wrench)
• Before you start out on a ride, check your tire pressure. 

Heavy Duty. If you want to avoid most flats, Desert-Proofing your tires is a good investment. It provides three layers of protection, Slime tire sealant, a heavy duty tube, and a lightweight plastic liner. The Slime will seal any small punctures, the heavy duty tube works with the Slime to make a good barrier and better sealing and the liner guards against sharp objects. Our desert-proof option includes the Slime, tube, liner and installation. You may also do each choice by itself. Many customers simply add Slime, or Specialized Airlock, to the tube and that's it.

Tubeless. Alternately, if equipped for tubeless ready, going tubeless is exceptional. It's lighter and more reliable, especially for mountain biking. The only downside is you must have rims and tires that are made for holding a good bead and they do need to have the sealant refreshed every few months. 

Lightweight Inserts. Just about any type of added protection from punctures adds to the weight of the tire and wheel. The lighter the tire, the more likely it will go flat. You must find a balance between protection and a heavy wheel. Also consider that the tire protects the rim from damage too. Light weight foam inserts, such as Tannus Armour, are a very popular choice because they don't add that much weight, allow for a natural ride and feel, and provide extra protection for the rim. 

Have A Plan. No matter how you set things up, you still should have a backup plan in case you get a flat tire. Practice changing the tire at home so you are comfortable making a repair on the road. Be prepared.

Tires lose air every day. Tubeless tires even faster. A road tire can go from 120psi to 110psi in 24-hours. 

Here are a few tips on tire pressure:

• Maximum recommended tire pressure is listed on the side of most tires. Do not exceed this rating. Generally, the smaller the cross section (how skinny the tire), the more pressure the tire can handle. 
• It's best to check tire pressure before every ride. Low pressure causes flats. Do check your pressure at least once a week.
• Mountain bike tires (2.0 to 3.0) will usually tolerate pressures as low as 28-32psi without getting pinch flats or excessive sidewall roll. Tubeless setups are usually lower, 24-28psi. Many riders use 9-15psi for tires in the plus category. Larger profiles can are even go lower, as low as 6psi on 4" fat tires. 
• A 10 degree temperature change will change the pressure by about 2%. Rim braking on a road tire could cause very high temperatures and dangerous pressures (especially if over inflated).
• Floor pumps are often off by as much as 5-15%. Use a good tire gauge to calibrate your floor pump and level-set your target mark on the floor pump dial.
• The rougher the road surface, the lower the pressure should be. A 120psi road setting would be too much on a rough road and actually be less efficient to pedal (tires deflect and bounce, causing heat and efficiency loss). The road bike will be more comfortable to ride and roll better at 100psi. Tubeless road tire setups benefit from lower pressures, usually running at 100psi, instead of 120psi, for a road tire. For a typical 2.2 MTB tire, a cross-country mountain bike may be best at 32psi, while an all-mountain would be be better at 28psi (or 25psi for tubeless). Equally, the more you weigh, and the harder you ride or corner, the higher the pressure will need to be. The new Plus size tires may run 8-15psi (tubeless), so make sure you check the rated pressure or the manufacturer's recommendations.

Low pressure may cause:

• Pinch flats - the tire compresses and pinches the tube inside
• Tire slippage - cutting the tube valve
• Tube abrasion - wearing out the tube inside
• Tire roll - tearing the sidewall or losing control
• Sidewall failure - tires sitting for a long time will crack at the flat spot made by the low pressure when the tire gradually goes completely flat
• Poor traction - the tire rolls off the tread area
• Bent rims - there is no protection from a hard hit
• Tire wear - the tire no longer wears where/how it is intended, so wears out faster
• Cracking - watch for cracks in the tire tread or casing - replace tries that are cracking

• Check your tube or tire size using the ISO metric system, for example, a 700 tire uses an ISO 622 tire/tube and a typical 26” tire uses an ISO tire/tube of 559.
• Only the ISO measures the actual bead diameter. For example: a 26 X 1.95 has an ISO of 559, but a 26 X 1 3/8 has an ISO of 590 (very different sizes).
• The ISO section (sect) size is also a fairly accurate way to judge how fat the tire is. For example, 700 road tires are usually 23-38mm wide, while 700 (or "29er") mountain bike tires are typically 48-58mm (1.9" to 2.3") wide. Yet, both the 700c and the 29er have the same bead diameter (622).
• Schrader valves are by far the most common valve. Presta or French valves are smaller and becoming much more common. 
• An adapter can make filling Presta valves very easy from a Schrader-type pump.
• All rims come with a well area to allow easy tire removal and installation. Getting the bead to drop into the well makes tire changes possible. 

Imperial, Metric & American Tire Sizing
Sometimes you can’t find any ISO size on a tire, only the old familiar markings. Although they’re familiar they can be very confusing. Tires of same size come with lots of different markings: e.g. 28×1¼×15/8 or 28×1¾×1¼ or 700×32C are all 32–622. Even worse, the same or very similar markings can sometimes be found on completely different sizes of tire: e.g. 26×1½ is a whole inch bigger than 26×1.5. Refer to the column headed Imperial, Metric or American in order to work out what actual (ISO) size you have. The first two headings need no explanation. The American column is for tire sizes originating in the USA and where US markings may confuse. Note that American and Japanese branded road tires tend to be smaller than described and often lack any ISO markings.

Tire–rim compatibility
Two tires with the same ISO markings are completely interchangeable, even if one seems to be metric and the other is also marked in inches: e.g. 650B and 26×1½ are both 38-584. Road tires (700c) and mountain bike tires ("29er") are both 622. The newer 27.5 mountain bike tires are designated as 650B or an ISO of 584. Look for the ISO numbers and you will always know exactly what you need. Even some rims are now marked according to ISO with their bead diameter and internal section (width where the tire fits): e.g. 622–17 for the size are usually fitted to touring and hybrid bikes. But, some manufacturers give the overall width instead. Subtract 6mm from overall width to estimate the rim section, or simply measure the distance between the flanges. If the rim is not marked with its bead diameter you can read this from the tire – it’s the one dimension they have in common.

Tire width is complicated by how you measure it, what size rim it is attached and what air pressure. Two factors are important when looking at width, will it fit in the bike frame, and is it the right size your rim. Generally, tires will fit a rim that is 55% to 65% the tire width. On a 50-559, the rim should be about 1" to 1 1/2" wide.

Odd size tires

Watch out for tires that have unusual markings. Many tires, especially older ones, have the outside diameter listed. This is not the same as the bead diameter. You need the bead diameter to get the right size tire or tube. Look for the ISO metric size to get the right combination. Note: 12" tires are usually marked as 12-1/2  X  2-1/4.  Strange, but true.

Shopping

When you go shopping for a tire, you will notice that the measurements are not precise. This is because there are no universal standards for measuring tires. For example, the width of a tire on a 15mm rim is very different when mounted on a 30mm rim. Similarly, you may have a 28” tire. However, the internal diameter is 622mm, more commonly called a 700c. How the tire fits on your rim and the clearance from the frame can vary considerably among brands. Things to consider:

• Tire pressure
• Type of tread
• Tubeless versus tubed
• Rim width
• Rim diameter versus the actual bead seat (how tight the bead is on the rim - e.g., tubeless rims/tires fit tighter)
• Thickness of the casing (e.g., race versus puncture resistant)
• Tire profile (round, oval or square)
• Clearance (width between frame, the height of the tire, interference with derailleur or chain)
• Measurement system (ETRTO/ISO, common, Imperial, Metric, American)

Check all around your wheels how much clearance you have between the tire and frame/fork/brakes. The most important are:

• Fork crown
• Brake calipers (front and rear): squeeze your brakes to get the clearance when you’re braking
• Chain stays
• Seat stays can limit the clearances on some bikes
• Seat tube
• Fenders: often, you can adjust the fenders to eliminate a tight spot.

We recommend a minimum of 3 mm clearance between your tires and the closest part of your bike. Any less, and you risk having your tire rub under hard acceleration or if the wheel develops a slight wobble.

Use this handy chart to find the right tire:

Always use a good quality bicycle-specific chain lubricant. Dumonde Tech chain lube is a liquid plastic and through polymerization forms long-lasting plating on all chain surfaces. The benefits of Dumonde are:

• Dumond forms an extremely low-friction plating
• Plating bonds to chain and can’t be washed off
  
• Components stay cleaner, last longer and run quieter
  
• Extremely durable, outlasts all other chain lubes
  
• Environmentally sensitive and saves money
  
• Is applied sparingly unlike many other other lubes
  

Lite and Original Bicycle Chain Lube (BCL) differ only in their concentration. Original BCL is more concentrated for exceptional durability under the most challenging conditions - like mountain biking or motorized gas or electric bikes.

In our shop, we use Dumonde BCL on cables, pivots points and seals. It is safe on plastic, rubber, and all sealing materials.  The product is designed to not harm your components. It is eco-friendly and environmentally sensitive, is engineered to perform with minimal “carbon footprint” by not washing off in water, is used sparingly, lasts longer between applications, resulting in longer drive chain life. It even works in the extreme cold conditions.

To prepare for maximum performance from BCL, use a high quality solvent, to thoroughly clean, and then dry the chain, before the first application.  You will only need to clean the chain once, prior to the first application. Over several rides, 2-3 applications are required for the bonding process to occur through polymerization. Apply BCL sparingly (apply one drop at a time to each link, until every link has been lubed), then wipe off excess lubricant with a clean cloth to the point where the chain’s outer surface appears dry.  One ounce of Dumonde Tech BCL will give you many applications. Re-apply BCL after several rides, listening to your chain sound, not appearance or time, as the best indicator of when the chain needs a reapplication of Original.  Use mild soap and water to clean between applications.

Oil only belongs inside the pin of the chain. The outside should be wiped clean. As well, the front chain rings and rear cogs should be free of oil and dirt. Dirty and oily drive trains attract sand and dirt that eats away at the drive surface. Keep it all clean.

Always keep your drive train clean. Oil should be inside the chain, not outside. Outside oil collects dirt and gets your leg greasy! Check the chain line and look for chain rubbing on the derailleur before every ride. It is easy to inadvertently bump the derailleur offline, causing poor chain alignment and dropping the chain. It is common for a chain to come off from a hard bump, shifting under too much pressure, or poor shifting technique. Keeping the chain maintained and in good alignment will help you avoid premature wear or a dropped chain.

Your chain wears out first. If not replaced when worn, it puts extra wear on the chainrings and rear cogs. Normally, you can replace your chain twice before replacing the chainrings and cogs. However, if you let the chain go, you must replace other parts sooner. Worse, worn cogs and chainrings will damage a new chain. 

A good method for checking chain wear is by measuring it with a ruler. Park Tool© has some great advice on this (Chain Check): "Pick a rivet and line it up at the zero mark. Count 23 more rivets, and your last rivet should be at the 12” mark of your ruler. If it is off by more than 1/16” your chain is stretched to the point of replacement." Note that chains are not worn on the outside; they are worn out on the pins inside. In other words, you cannot tell if a chain is worn out just by looking at it. 

According to Park Tool©, you can make a quick check by looking for slack when the chain is wrapped around the big chain ring: "If [the chain] lifts off the chainring to the point where you can see a lot of daylight [1/4"] between your chain and chainrings, you’ll either need to replace your chain, or you are fast approaching the point of replacement. It’s nearly as accurate as using the proper tool, but it’s a good starting point if you haven’t replaced your chain in a while."

Look at the teeth on your drive chain. Often, they will be visibly worn into sharp points at the tooth, especially on small cogs. A worn cog will allow a new chain to be slack when wrapped around the cog. Any slack by a new chain around a cog indicates wear. It's probably time to change them all out. As well it's best to replace all the cogs and chainrings at the same time, regardless of individual wear.

Visit our store to buy chain tools by Park Tool©. We carry a very large selection of tools for the professional and home mechanic (Park Tool Bicycle Tools). 

Here is a link to a Park Tool video on how to check your chain.

Set the SAG and rebound on you air shock/fork.

SAG is the amount of travel on your fork or shock from your static body weight and the bike. Shocks are designed to operate best in the middle third of their travel. Essentially, your goal is to have the bike in the middle third 80% of the time. Secondarily, SAG should be set so you don’t bottom out on hard hits or big G-outs. Some shocks/forks do have the option to insert small tokens or bumpers to cushion the last 10% of travel, allowing you to have a softer SAG setting, but still prevent bottoming out. As a guideline, cross-country and fast flowing trail terrain, target around 15%-25% SAG, to ride a little higher in the stroke and maintain a firm feel (bikes with about 100mm of travel). For all-mountain and steeper more challenging terrain, target around 30% SAG, to keep the ride in the middle third (bikes with about 140mm of travel). For downhill and fast technical terrain, target around 33% SAG, to ensure you take advantage of the full travel available (bikes over 150mm of travel). Your riding preference will also determine your personalized SAG setting. Some like less SAG for a firmer ride, while others prefer a plush ride. Experiment to get to your preference. After every change you make, be sure to cycle the shock or fork at least 30 times to ensure equalization of air pressure.

To set your rear shock, adjust the initial air pressure according to your weight and the manufacturers recommendations. Open the compression adjuster all the way (soft). Using a helper, carefully get on the bike, sit in a neutral position, reset the O-ring and observe how far down you compress the shock. Dismount easy and verify you are between 25% and 33%. Add or let air out depending on your goal. Check your setting after every ride to verify that you still are in range. Look at the O-ring or dirt line to see if you are using your range as expected and not bottoming out.

To set the forks, use the same procedure as the shock, but you will need to pedal around some. Open the compression adjuster all the way (soft). Get on easy, ride smoothly and don’t come to an abrupt stop. Most forks have a chart for a starting weight to air pressure setting or you can look it up on their website. Either way, you SAG goal is the same. As with the shock, check your dirt line after each ride.

Next, set the rebound. This controls how fast the shock returns to normal (bounces back). Adjust your rebound slower by turning it in all the way. Unscrew the rebound adjuster and count each click. The more you weigh (higher air pressure), the slower the rebound will be. Start at the manufacturers recommendation for rebound, based on the air pressure you set. Screw the rebound adjuster all the way in and back it out between 30% and 50% of the total clicks. Your goal is for the shock to not kick you when you go over a big bump and off a jump. Too much rebound will cause the shock to stay too low in the stroke and result in a harsh ride. For the fork, your goal is a plush feel and the fork to not push you out of the corners. As with the shock, start at the manufacturers recommendation or 30% to 50% out from fully screwed in.

Having your SAG and rebound set properly will allow you to get the full benefit of your bike. It will balance the front and rear action and vastly improve your control. Adjust in small increments so you can find your sweet spot. Now go out and ride.

Today's e-bike batteries are very reliable and last a long time.

Keep your battery sharp. Heat and neglect are the most common causes of battery failure.

E-bike batteries have come a long way. They are lighter and more powerful than even a few years ago. However, they are still quite expensive. Following just a few basic tips can dramatically extend battery lifespan.

The first thing is to dispel some myths that persist. You don't need to discharge modern Li-Ion batteries down to zero to keep them healthy. And, you don't need to maintain them on your charger when not in use.

Battery Safety

Leaving the battery on the charger might be dangerous should the circuitry malfunction in the battery or the charger. Furthermore, it's best not to leave any charging battery unattended, just to be safe. It is an electrical appliance, and the safest way to handle it is never to leave it unattended, especially overnight, and limit the charging time to four hours. If it is not charged in four hours, give it a break to cool off. The charger and the battery may get warm but never too hot to touch. Learn more: Battery Safety

If your battery shows signs of swelling, hot spots, or damaged electrical terminals, stop using it. Recycle it properly, following the manufacturer's guidelines.

Maximizing battery lifespan starts with these fundamental basics:

Keeping the charge between 20% and 80% when not being used helps the battery last longer. This technique can even extend to everyday use. However, most people charge it all the way up after every ride. This is most convenient so that the battery is ready to go when you are. Ultimately, charging after every ride may shorten its life, but the difference is not really worth the inconvenience or not having the bike ready to ride when you are. But, if you don't plan to ride for a while, a few weeks or months, store the battery at around 50% charge. Check it periodically to keep it between 20% and 80% charged.

Store the battery at room temperature. Don't leave it in the garage where temperatures may go below freezing or above 100 degrees.

Don't leave the battery on the charger after it has come to a full charge. Most all of the newer chargers, from name-brand manufacturers, have an automatic charge limit, that does not come back on until the battery drops measurably in voltage. In other words, it won't harm the battery if you accidentally leave it on the charger. However, leaving it on the charger will cause the battery to recharge periodically, keeping it in a full-charge state constantly (reducing lifespan), and it will use up your charge cycles. The flipside: leaving the battery completely discharged for an extended period can damage the battery to where can no longer be charged back up.

Don't let the battery sit in the sun. This can overheat it and cause damage. Definitely go ride in the sun or heat. That's okay. You're moving and this helps keep the battery cool. In cold-weather riding, the battery will not work as well because the cold slows the chemical reaction in the battery cells, so you cannot expect as much range, but you can still go for a ride. Keep the battery in the vehicle when traveling and out of the elements.

Only charge the battery when it has reached room temperature. Too cold or too hot charging can hurt the battery.

Avoid charging the battery with a fast charger when possible. Fast charging does shorten the battery lifespan.

As a best practice, plug the battery into the charger first before plugging the charger into the wall. Disconnect the charger from the wall first before unplugging the battery from the charger. Although most chargers do a great job of regulating surges, following this procedure helps keep surges to a minimum.

Most modern batteries, such as those from Shimano, Yamaha, Samsung, Panasonic, Bosch, and Specialized, are the best available today. You can expect 500 to 800 full charging cycles before the battery begins to show significant signs of age. Some customers report 1,500 or more cycles before losing steam. You can also count a quarter charge as a quarter cycle. Meaning, you can get 3,200 quarter cycles.

For more information, see: Electric Bike FAQs

Savvy, thrifty buyers can really benefit from buying used.

You never know what you might get. You could end up buying someone else's problems or a worn-out bike. Avoid a bad deal by following a good checklist to examine the bike and compare it to others.

• How dirty is the bike? A dirty bike is a sign of neglect.
• Are there any poorly turning pivot points, such as the wheels, derailleurs, steering, or brakes? Repairing damaged or worn bearings can be costly.
• How worn are the tires? Replacing tubes and tires may be costly.
• Are the wheels bent? Finding and replacing a wheel (or rim) is expensive.
• Are all the spokes tight?
• Ride the bike and note issues. Shift through all the gears. Does the chain skip on hard pedaling - try every gear.
• Grab a handful of brake to see if the bike stops ok.
• Spin the wheels and cranks with the bike upside down - check for gritty bearings.
• Are any pivot points wiggly or loose?
• Check for chain wear (When to replace the chain)
• If the frame is dented or deeply scratched, it may be best to take a pass.

So, now you have the bike you wanted. Check it all out and get anything fixed. Maybe throw on a fresh set of tires. Then, Ride!

It seems obvious, but the best way to sell and get the most money is to make your bike look good to a buyer. Before you post it for sale, make sure you know what it is worth, how much you will post it for, and your bottom dollar. Check various forums and listing services for the best listing price. Remember, just because someone else posted a similar bike on eBay for $1,000 doesn't mean it's worth $1,000. I heard someone say, "My biggest fear is when I die, my spouse will sell my bikes for what I said they cost." Your bike is only worth what someone is willing to pay for it. Make sure you are ready to let it go before you start a negotiation. Decide on your lowest price before you negotiate.

You can sell your bike to a pawn shop or sell it to us at Archer's Bikes; we take trade-ins, too. Read more at: Sell my Bike

Before you post the bike, go through it to make sure you squeeze every dollar out of it. Here are some tips:

• Clean your bike. Use a good de-greaser and a brush, like Simple Green.  Never use a pressure washer. After you use the degreaser and brush, scrub with a cloth and hot, soapy water. Rinse lightly. Wipe dry and let it stand in the sun for a while. Turn it upside down to drain any accumulated water. Never wash it upside down. 
• Polish the bike with a good bike shine, like Maxima SC-1
• Repair and replace broken parts
• Put on new brake pads and adjust the brakes - poor brakes will lower the impression of your asking price
• True the wheels - wobbly wheels are a sure sign of a worn bike
• Make it shift smoothly - a test ride is likely by the buyer (take a deposit first)
• Replace those old tires - new tread makes the whole bike stand out
• Replace the tubes so the tires don't lose air (they usually go flat right before a buyer comes to see the bike)
• Put on a new, shiny chain
• Grease and adjust all the bearings
• Replace the handlebar tape to give the bike a sharp image

Save a ton and do it yourself

No skill? No experience? Not a big deal, as long as you have the desire to work on your bike yourself. Almost any task needed to repair your bike is on YouTube: Bike Repair. The most manageable tasks are the most common. They include:

• 
  
  • Lube the chain. Your primary objective is to have a clean oiled surface inside the links. Apply oil sparingly and always wipe the chain clean after oiling. You don't want oil on the outside, it just attracts dirt.
  • Fix a flat. You need some basic tools, such as a tire lever and an air pump. You may need a 15mm wrench for the wheel nuts. Be prepared with a spare tube and check the inside of the tire for pokey things before putting it back together.
  • Adjust the brakes. A little trickier than fixing a flat. The main objective is to make sure the pads don't rub and the brake lever has enough tension to make a good stop. Replacing the brake pads is the most common task.
  • True a wheel. It's nearly impossible to adjust the rim brake pads if the wheel is not straight. Learning how to true a wheel is not easy, but lots of people can do it, and so can you.
• Adjust the shifting. Clicking between gears, unable to hit a gear or skipping - it's all annoying, but usually easy to fix. You just need to turn the right screw. Replacing worn parts, like a chain or cassette is more difficult and requires special tools. but then, you can always get started and go to the bike shop if you get stuck.

Read more on basic maintenance at: Bike FAQs

Not sure about this technology - read on.

Most electric mountain bikes are Class One. This means they will not provide help pedaling after about 18mph. Although they can have as much as 750 watts, most are under 500 watts, and center-drive motors are usually even less (they need less because they are more efficient). In most jurisdictions, motors over 750 watts are considered a moped or a motorcycle, not an e-bike. For Class One bikes, there is no throttle, although you can have a throttle on a Class Two bike, but must not be able to exceed 20mph. Class 3 bikes can go up to 28mph, but may not be allowed on all trails. All "Classed" e-bikes are considered bicycles under Arizona law and are permitted on most roads and paths. Usually, e-bike limitations are posted at the trailhead. 

The amount of power or help you get while pedaling is adjustable on most all e-bikes. You can pedal as hard or as easily as you want. And make no mistake, these bikes are not motorcycles. A typical e-bike is 1/2 Horsepower. When set on economy mode, it's about 1/4hp. A typical trail dirt bike is 25hp. That's a big difference. 

Expect to get 20-30 miles of riding per charge, based on an average assist level, not max power. Li-ion batteries can be recharged after every ride. No need to fully discharge them. That means the bike is ready to go the full distance on every ride. 

Weight is a factor. Most e-MTBs weigh in at 50 pounds. If you have to pedal home with no power, it will be a slow pace. Watch your power meter to make sure you have enough power to get home. Some center-drive e-mtbs weigh less than 35 pounds. 

Personally, I think e-bikes are here to stay. If we all observe the rules and are nice to one another on the trail, I'm confident their addition will only serve to make it better for all of us to enjoy the outdoors on a bike. Check out the options: E-MTB

No matter your skill level or terrain, wearing a helmet is essential.

Your head is five feet off the ground, and even a small impact could be devastating. A helmet is a modest investment; your head is not. And, don't ever let your kids decide they don't like wearing a helmet. They don't choose, you do. According to the Insurance Institute for Highway Safety, in the majority of bicyclist deaths, the most serious injuries are to the head. Helmet use has been estimated to reduce the odds of head injury by 50 percent.

When you shop for a helmet, you need to try it on. Look for a comfortable feel and a good fit. Not too wobbly and not too tight. Every head is different. No single style, brand, or even model will fit comfortably. There is no universal fit. Adjust the straps for a perfect final fit. Shop around.

Choose the type of helmet. Most are fit for a particular purpose. Types include: general purpose, mountain biking, road biking, skate park (bucket), downhill (full face), Children's specific, and Aero.

Don't go too cheap. Plan to spend between $35 and $75. Look for advanced features and fit that come with higher-priced models. Make sure the one you buy has at least one CPSC or EN-1078 safety test rating. Stick to major, reputable manufacturers, such as Kali, Giant, Specialized, or Aerius (that's the brands we carry).

Replace that old helmet. Helmets have a limited lifespan, even when sitting in the garage. The foam deteriorates. Plan to replace it every 3-5 years. If it's damaged, replace it. Helmets should be considered disposable. Once impacted, they should be replaced, even if there are no significant signs of damage.

The latest development in helmet technology is the Multi-directional Impact Protection System (MIPS). It's a thin, low-friction liner inside the helmet that allows the outer shell to slide a few millimeters across the skull on impact, reducing rotational force and the amount of energy transferred to the head. Rotational force is shown to be a factor in concussions. Many MIPS-equipped helmets are under $100. Other technologies found on, for example, Kali Protectives include: LDL - Consists of specially designed viscoelastic padding placed throughout the helmet, and Composite Fusion - Incorporates layers of multi-density cone-shaped EPS foam.

See buying options: Helmets

Here are the general categories of bike styles.

There is a huge variety of bike types available today. One for just about any purpose. Consider where you will be riding first, to help narrow down your search. travel on Dirt trails, graded unimproved roads, snow, sand, or paved - all go into bike design. Second, decide on how much you want to spend. Third, figure out how often and for how long you will ride. Put these in order: Where-Budget-Time. The basic types of bikes are compiled below. Common averages are listed to help you understand the typical rider. You may ride much more or a lot less. Look over this short list of bike types to help focus your decision:

Road Bike: Aerodynamics, skinny tires, and efficient speed characterize this style. They may be called, tri-bike, criterium, road race, gravel, cyclocross, time trial, trekking, or other names. Improved roads / $500 - $1,000 average / 3 days per week, 10 miles average.

Mountain Bike: Suspension (shocks), big tires, and an attack riding position characterize this style. They may be called, hard tail, fully suspended, rigid, all-mountain, downhill, cross country, or other names. Unimproved roads / $500 - $2,000 average / 2 days per week, 5 miles average.

Beach/Comfort Cruiser: A relaxed riding position, bigger tires and an upright riding position are this bike's hallmarks. They go by, beach cruiser, comfort bike, pedal forward, stretch, beach bike, casual or others. Improved roads or parks / $250 - $800 / 1 day per week, 3 miles average.

Urban Bike: These bikes share the traits of convenience and durability. They usually have a flat bar and fewer gears, coupled with slightly larger than normal tires. They go by names such as campus, commuter, urban cruiser, fixie, single-speed, and more. Improved roads / $200 - $800 / 5 days per week, 2 miles average.

Hybrid: Like a mountain bike, but more at home on the road. They have some suspension, an upright riding position and bigger tires. Usually called a hybrid, comfort bike, city bike, casual cruiser, or some other crafty hip-sounding name. Improved roads / $450 - $1,500 / 2 days per week, 5 miles average.

Fat Tire: Similar to a beach cruiser, but with a big fat tire, 4" or more. They may have some modest suspension, are most at home on sand, grass or snow, and are marked by a very casual look. Fat tire seems to be the most common name. Parks or roads / $800 - $1,500 / every two weeks, 5 miles average.

Folding: A purpose-built bike meant to be easily transported or stowed. They are primarily on smaller tires, have a compact ride, and are mainly purchased for convenience, not ride feel. A folding bike can come in many varieties, even a full-size bike. Improved roads / $250 - $1,500 / sporadically, 2 miles average.

Recumbent: Comfort is the key. This bike lets you ride sitting back and is lower to the ground, making mounting/dismounting easier. It takes all the pressure off your back and hands. They come in two and three-wheel versions and myriad combinations of tire sizes. Roads / $1,200 - $2,000 / 3 days per week, 10 miles average.

Also read: Bike Choices

Which motor is better?

It's a complex question. Without doubt, a mid-drive is the overall best performer for nearly all applications. A hub-drive works great and costs less.

An e-bike motor can be mounted on the pedals as a mid-drive, on the front or rear wheel as a hub-drive, bolted to the side, directly driving the wheel, or even bolted to the top of the tire as a friction-drive. These days, bolt-on designs are very uncommon. Hub-drives are losing favor and mid-drives are becoming dominant.

Motors come as brushless or brushed. Brushed motors use a moving electrical connection to supply power directly to the motor's windings. They are less expensive to build, may be very powerful, but are inefficient to operate. E-bikes with brushed motors are dated and rarely seen anymore. Brushless motors are the most common for an e-bike. They are more efficient to operate and have a longer lifespan.

An e-bike motor can be configured with or without internal gearing. Direct drive motors use no gears, but are larger and heavier than geared. There is less to wear out, but they can fail. Direct drive is only available as a hub motor because of size. They are very efficient once at speed, but deliver poor torque at startup.

Geared motors are the most common. They are compact and the only way to manufacture a mid-drive. Geared drives are more efficient at low speeds, delivering greater torque at startup.

When the motor is mounted inside the wheel as a hub drive, the wheel is turned by the motor, with no advantage from any gear selection. That means they always run at the same gear ratio, no matter what speed you are traveling. Hub drives are economical and most practical as a Class 3, primarily used on improved roads or paths, with a throttle, and a maximum assisted speed of 28 mph. The most significant disadvantage is unsprung weight and a feeling of heaviness, as the motor's extra weight is out at the ends of the bike. Hub-drives may also be Class 1, resulting in a very affordable ride.

Mid- or center-drive motors put all the weight on the pedals, making the bike feel lighter and more balanced. They are most commonly a Class 1, may be Class 3, and are appropriate on all varieties of roads, paths, or trails, usually configured without a throttle and limited to 20 mph. Best of all, changing gears allows the motor to take full advantage of your gear selection, giving you improved range with efficient power application across a broader speed range (1 mph to 28 mph).

Here is a short list of the most common applications and configurations:

• Commuting - Speed and distance are top priorities. For a tight budget (under $2,000), a hub drive would be a good choice. If you can afford it, pushing $3,000 would get you into a mid-drive, making the ride handling more like a regular bike.
• Mountain Biking - Handling is most important. By far, the best configuration for this application is a factory-built center drive. Starting at about $2,500, center drive is the only way to go. It allows gear selection and a stable center of mass, making quick handling on the trail easy. Some mountain bikes sell for as much as $15,000.
• Urban Riding - Comfort is the most common requirement. Whether a short romp around the neighborhood or a trip to the store, any configuration will work. On a budget, go with a hub (under $2,000). Spend a little more and get a premium mid-drive ride.
• Trekking - Distance is most important. A center drive will deliver the best overall performance and efficiency. Look for a bike with a large battery option and a high-efficiency motor. Expect to spend at least $3,000.
• Hunting - For this, you need power. Some hub-drive models exceed 760 watts and are best suited for ATV trails. The best overall fit is a mid-drive, like the Bafang 750W center-drive (also as a conversion kit).  Coupled with a big battery, it delivers lots of torque and can be used at low power to get a reasonable distance. A high-quality, full conversion will run about $3,000.
• All Around - One bike does it all, dominated by convenience and practicality. Most riders gravitate to a customized mountain bike with a center drive for maximum flexibility. Change the seat, raise the bars, and you get nearly everything in one package. For easy transport or storage, get a folding e-bike. $2,500 gets you into a customized hub-drive urban bike; $3,000, a modified mountain bike. Many e-bikes come ready for all-around use, without modification. Figure $2,500 and up for a good cross-functional e-bike that needs little or no modification.

So, which motor is best? It depends on your needs and budget. The final analysis is conducted after you ride the bike and compare. Only then will you know for sure.

Learn More

There are tons of saddle and bike seat options.

Confused about all the options? Saddles have come a long way. Seat technology is very impressive these days. Looking back, my first seat was a Brooks leather beast, requiring a lot of attention. Today, I have a different seat for every bike and really appreciate the latest innovations.

Saddles fall into three major categories: Road, Mountain, and Comfort. Selecting the right seat for you depends on several factors, including your body type, hours spent on the saddle, and intended use. For example, if you ride occasionally for fun and sit upright on a hybrid urban bike, you are going to prefer a well-padded, wide platform and a short nose. If you are a road racer, you will likely choose a narrow platform, firmer cushion, and longer nose. Mountain bike seats are usually a bit broader in the back and have a sloping front nose.

Here are some of the more common options:

Cushion - Some BMX seats are just solid plastic and not made for sitting too long. On the other hand, some seats have very ample padding, foam or gel, and springs underneath. Choose the firmest saddle, among your choices, because the softer cushion absorbs pedaling energy, making effort less efficient. As you become more comfortable riding for more extended periods, you will come to appreciate firmer padding.

Length - BMX and children's bikes are the shortest at a mere 5 inches, while some exceptionally long (and broad) platform seats are found on adult trikes at 12 inches. The nose is used to control the bike by squeezing with your thighs. However, the nose should be comfortable, with a level tilt for best results. Some models slope down to allow the rider to move forward while climbing. Others are leading the way with a much shorter nose to aid comfort. Although not a very practical way to control the bike, a nose-less saddle may work for you, but you do give up some control when standing.

Width - Saddle width ranges from 4.5 inches (road racing) to as much as 18 inches (adult trike). Standard road widths are 140mm to 150mm (5 1/2" to 6"). Mountain saddles run a little wider or flare towards the back. Look for a wider & softer seat if you are a casual rider. Alternatively, spending more consistent time in the saddle will get your body used to the pressure points, allowing you to choose a narrower & firmer seat. Watch out for a nose that is too wide, which could cause undue friction around your thighs.

Cutout - Pressure and support should come from the pelvis (sit bones); anywhere else can cause discomfort. Better seats have a center cutout or soft spot to prevent undue pressure along the centerline. Having a cutout for ventilation also aids ventilation and may help reduce chafing.

Cost - Inexpensive (utilitarian) seats start at $20, but they break easily, have little or no padding, and feel like sitting on a plank. To get a reasonably good seat, expect to pay at least $50, with the average range of $40 to $100. More than $100 should get you features like Cr-Mo rails, fancy padding, the latest style, lightweight, and even leather (ooh).

Seat Cover - This can be a great cost-saving solution, but a new saddle is always better. Covers tend to slide around and are not nearly as comfortable as a well-fitted complete saddle.

You can't ride every choice. But you can use the information above to narrow it down and visually inspect your prospective seat. It's best to talk to a bicycle shop expert and touch & see your choice before you buy. We stock a vast variety of saddles in our store to help you find the right fit.

See the online choices

Be prepared - Have a plan.

Water is always the first requirement, especially as it gets hotter. Plan at least one quart (32 ounces - about a liter) per hour, and have some for backup, in case you break down. Water bottles hold 16-24 ounces. A hydration pack can hold much more. Plan at least 50oz (1.3l) per hour in the AZ weather. That's a lot of water, making a hydration pack even more a necessity.

Checklist (the essentials):

• Water - Plain water is best. Sugary drinks are harder to absorb, but may be your preference. Avoid alcohol an caffeine.
• Have a snack in case you bonk - carbohydrates are better on the road than protein. Fruit, like a banana or an apple, are always a good choice.
• A cheap hair comb - used to help pull off cactus and spines (tweezers are good for the small stuff too).
• Antiseptic spray, like Bactine©, to clean scrapes immediately (improves healing time, helps prevent infection).
• Several gauze pads (3") to clean wounds and cover them for the ride home.
• Athletic tape to hold the gauze pad in place and keep the wound clean.
• Sunscreen in a small bottle.
• A repair kit, including: folding multi-tool, plastic ties, tire levers, spare tube, patches, pump and/or CO2 and $5 (to give to someone that stops to help you).
• An emergency whistle and small red flag to signal for help. 
• Charged cell phone.
• Your glasses or reading glasses.
• Put everything in a gallon freezer bag to keep it all dry.
• A spare inner tube (or two, for longer rides).
• Spare Tire, or at least a boot, for larger tears and a small bottle of extra Stans, in case your tubeless setup runs dry.
• Tire levers, to get that tire off the bead.
• Pump or CO2 cartridge (always add CO2 to a tubeless tire with the valve at the top of the tire so you don't freeze your sealant).
• Wrench to loosen your axle nuts or through-axle.
• Before you start out on a ride, check your tire pressure and make it near the pressure listed on the side of the tire.